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Coron Expedition - 12 Days Expedition from May 19 to 30, 2000

Day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

DAY 12: MAY 30, 2000 Tuesday

NAME: Helen Spiegelberg

Before I start today’s journal I feel something must be said about last night. What a tremendous journey we all experienced in the speedboat on the return trip to Sangat Reserve. The weather suddenly turned against us, torrential rain, huge waves and buckets of spray thrown into our faces. It was like a scene an action-packed life-boat movie, hair-raising and yes, I was terrified. I suddenly realized that perhaps I’d made rather a rash selfish decision to come out here, putting my personal adventurous spirit before the security of my sons. There were times when I felt the small (editor's note: 21 foot) speedboat would flip over, the heavy load of nine swimming via turbulent sea to shore; a long swim and goodness knows where the current would have taken us. Greg steered the boat magnificently, timing each wave so we eased through whenever possible but stil we were lifted up and out of the heaving water only to thud back down into the soaking spray – over and over again, up and down. Our heads low down in the boat, life jackets firmly buckled – we prayed – and swore! Greg looked positively grey from deep concentration and concern. It was a terrible journey and the second time during this holiday when I’ve felt I’d bitten off a bit more than I could chew. But all was well, we landed on Sangat beach soaked but safe, mentally and physically exhausted.


		What did you learn about dusk/moonlight photography? What would I do differently next time? John: "Don’t do it, you get eaten alive by mossies that know exactly when your hands are occupied and you need to keep still.." Sue Barling: "Patrick gave us some good tips on lighting the subject, e.g. use of reflected light from reflective board or even foil. Times for shooting often considered - early or later, not in the harsh light in the middle of the day. We had good discussions on the moral/ethical role of the photojournalist - when to give up a good picture if it would be offensive to others or one's own sense of right. Whether it's "good" practice to pose a picture, interaction with the subject. I learned that I should not hold back if the subjects are amenable, getting close." Greg Hutchinson: "Learned about the sexist theory of photography. Men are shot from below (macho). Women from above (feminine)."

So was it not surprising that in view of day before) I awoke to find Tuesday morning relatively calmer outside – safe to return to Coron – Greg would not have to arrange to airlift us off Sangat after all! We packed and left the island at 9 a.m., sailing to Coron on the island outrigger – a comfortable and dry journey! Booked into Sea Dive, changed out stuff and set off in another outrigger to the camp. The water on our little beach was wonderfully clear today and amazingly and much to my relief – no jelly fish! Snorkelled over the mass of coral and saw very clearly masses of colourful fish including crocodile fish, puffer, blue starfish – it’s another world down there – so colourful. The sun was blistering hot as we pulled down the tents and stacked the outrigger every conceivable space taken over attached the two floating huts, boarded the canoes and ourselves and chugged over to the “Who-Ha” or something like that to moor the huts. We were very fortunate to have the opportunity of spending an hour with an elder of the Tagbanua tribe, it was fascinating hearing how they live, via our boat-boy interpreter. He had three children under five years the youngest looked about three moths old and his wife was pregnant again – she looked six months …All the women I saw were holding babies under one year old and they were pregnant! The children don’t go to school until seven years old. They are Roman Catholic (hence large families perhaps!) and they go to church twice a month. They do not object to tourists. Tourists do not affect their fishing industry even when diving. The people in the Philippines all seem to welcome having their photographs taken, run towards the camera, give vast cheeky, twinkling smiles and don’t ask for money – delightful, friendly people.

Our Tagbanua man had bright red gums from betelnut which he chewed whilst we spoke. Chip showed how to roll a joint (of betelnut that is!) he then chewed it and I think enjoyed it – a waste just putting on a brave show!

We asked many, hopefully intelligent questions and learned much about the precarious art of bird’s nest hunting. The season is January to June and amazingly there are very few accidents. The inside of the nest is collected after the birds have hatched and flown. The nests are sent over to Coron where it is collected by the Japanese for the Taiwan market. The Tagbanua are paid 3,600 pesos per ounce and 10 nests = 1 oz.

Greg asked what the main problem is for the Tagbanua and our man said water. There is a well and water travels to them via that. The cave looked clean and comfortable but we were not invited in, we sat, shoeless, on the verandah. Malaria is a problem for the Tagbanua as well as for us (this was later disputed by the microbiologist in the local Coron clinic where Sue went for her malaria test). As we sat chatting my stomach pains returned again and I was beginning to panic – going to the loo would not have been a pleasant experience in such primitive surroundings – I managed to deeply breathe and hold on!

Returned to Coron via Cayangan lagoon area. There was a full-masted ship in the bay, well hidden by the limestone rock – a wonderful setting for a pirate film. Five decided to kayak back to Sea Dive, a long way. I chickened out and remained on the outrigger. Patrick and Marichu pointed out a large rusty looking old ship steaming out towards Coron island and I was told this was an illegal boat using child labour, 15-18 years old who dive down 60+ meters without oxygen cylinders just using a long hose pipe, to collect fish and to hammer off coral. Many ruin their lungs and cannot dive after they are 18 years and many get the bends. They are not paid much, their families almost sell them off to do it. There are no coastguards. The ship owners get away with it.

Returned to Coron, unloaded outrigger then wallowed under a cold shower. Took two Imodium, hope they work! Amazed I managed to get back to base without any personal accidents! Also took two Remofen – in fact I’m not feeling too good. Washed hair, sorted out clothes and my precious bag of shells! I hope they don’t smell in my luggage – far too previous to put in the hold – I’ve spent hours collecting them! I’ll probably end up paying excess baggage for shells!! Kayakers all arrived back safely and we all emerged later clean and fresh to swirl back the very cheap gin and rum. No mosquitoes – wonderful to just sit still without slapping oneself to kill yet another attacking mossie and not have to reach for the spray every five minutes. Another fish and rice dinner and a lot of talking about what we are going to do tomorrow – but whatever is decided will no doubt change again before morning so I retired, sprayed the room – just in case – and slept!

What will I remember from this holiday – so much. When alone and time to think at home I’ll just close my eyes and transport myself back here and instantly I’ll hear the squealing, screeching pigs, the crowing cockrels, the kids, the crickets, the motors of the outriggers, the shouts, chatter and laughter of children – a cacophony of different sounds – that is the Philippines – a wonderful adventure – many thanks.